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Now up to the tricky part with my little turbo manifold. Cutting and shaping the inner bends to suit the main chambers.

First up I cut to top sections off to prepares for the “fish mouth” operation.


The inner runners will be cut to allow this pipe to sit across them

The first rough cut of the fish mouth.

This angle gives a perspective of how much material needs cut out.

Mostly done, just some fine trimming now.

Larger view shows that every thing fits in and aligns. Just need to the other one and I cam move onto the next part.



Till next time!

Boredom set in over the weekend and I decided to kick off a random project using a bunch of spare parts laying around the place. The goal for this project is to build  steam pipe turbo manifold using a compact log design to allow a generic chinese GT3076R T3 turbo swing off the side of a 4AGZE motor. This project currently has no real purpose other then using it as a build exercise to learn to use a few new tools and techniques, but at the same time to produce a turn key project (just in case I want to sell it for some $$$ afterwards 😉 ). This includes tackling tasks like heat management, oil and coolant line placement, turbo dump pipe placement and ease of service.

I had actually drafted up a design for this during the week after an insomnia driven night of CAD.
4AGTE Manifold.png

It’s a basic log manifold design with a couple of optimisations for flow (Cylinders 2&3 actually flow into the center instead of directly into the log wall).

As I was mocking up parts on the floor, I found it was hard to align the steam pipe elbows to the manifold flange with any form of accuracy, so I whipped up this alignment rings on the 3D Printer
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Fitted 4 units into the elbows. They are easily removed using a dremel to split them inside the flange.
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I had a bunch of 4AG flanges cut out last year, so grabbed on out and fitted it to a spare head.
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Tack welded the first two elbows.
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Quickly removed for a few measurements.
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The remaining two elbows were trimmed (free hand with the grinder….) and then tacked in as well.
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I test fitted a AE101 CAS, which is stupidly close to the manifold. This worries me as I don’t want the manifold and turbo cooking the CAS, so I might look at other options. (This is the heat management part).
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Same situation with the AW11 4AGZE distributor.
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I then tack welded the T3 turbo flange in to being a quick dummy up of where everything will go.
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I then checked that there was still enough space between the runners to fit a spanner in. This ensures that I can actually get the unit on and off the motor!
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Even plenty of space to access the bottom row from the top.
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With it all tacked up and bolted to the motor, it was turbo time. This is a generic china GT3076R turbo I picked up for the V6 last year. It’s stupidly big for a 4AG, but will pack a massive punch HP wise.
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The compressor is faced towards the back of the motor for packaging and heat management purposes. The shifter cables, heater hoses and transmission lines all run at the back of the motor, so I wanted to avoid putting the turbo and dump pipe in that region.
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Unfortunately to make everything super compact, it also means I have to relocate the oil filter.
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I then threw on a bit of aluminium intake tubing to mock up the path of the dump pipe.
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I wasn’t happy with the CAS/Dizzy location being right on the corner of the manifold, so I looked for alternate options and found this. It converts a 36 tooth cam gear into a 36-1 trigger wheel with a hall sensor fitted. This will work with the MegaSquirt ECU’s I have.
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I test fitted the slimmest Oil relocation plate I had.
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But even with the fittings removed, it was nearly touching.
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However, thanks to Google, I found this nice little Moroso unit that will do the job.
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Well that’s it for this post.
Till next time!

Playing with some other stuff over the weekend.

I picked up a dirty cheap M90 supercharger from a Ford Thunderbird which is in much nicer condition then the M90 from the L67 Commodore I picked up around xmas. It’s got better mounting points, better ports and is a more compact unit. So I decided to play around with some potential fitments for the supercharger in the engine bay.

Mount it standing upright like the factory TRD unit. However not a lot of space to fit an sizable intercooler between the outlet and the intake.

Next up I tested it with the longer drive snout from the L67 M90 (TB one is just too short for this position).

There is plenty of space to build a laminova intercooler in the valley of the motor, however due to the position of the pulley directly above the engine mount, it will require a couple of idler and tensioner pullies.

Or it could even be mounted like this (factory Thunderbird orientation), this allows plenty of space for everything.

A quick dummy fit of some pipe work shows it is a good option.

During the weekend I helped B24 collect his 2GR from the engine builders and he offered me some spare 2GR valves to do some dummy fitting into the 1MZ heads I have sitting around.

The 2GR valves are a honking big valve compared to the 1MZ.

Intake valve diameter: 34.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 27.3 mm
Intake valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Exhaust valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm

Intake valve diameter: 38.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 32.0 mm
Overall intake valve length: 105.85 mm
Overall exhaust valve length: 110.4 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm

First think I noticed was, the two heads I have here are not a matched pair… One is a VVT head and one is not.

There is a noticeable difference in combustion chamber, valve guides and valve seats.

Plonking the valves in one head showed they were very close to touching, however they are unseated and would clear once fitted to the heads correctly. It would just be a case of ensuring the duration/overlap of the camshafts would not cause an interference.

Dropping them into the other head showed that due to the increased squish area, the valves will not sit without machining it back. However I reckon it can still be done.

One of these heads has had the intake ports ported out, so I thought I would show a quick comparison.

Stock porting, pretty rough and pretty average.

Ported head, cleaned up and looks the goods.

Gives me ideas for when I get around to porting some heads….

More tinkering.

Roughed out the intake ports, just need to tidy it all up now with the dremel.

Had to chop some clearance out of the supercharger mount.

Plenty of room to access for the bolts on the manifold. Same from the top once the fuel rail is removed.

It’s all fits, but is still tight.

Time to test fit it in the engine bay

Supercharger fits with a lot more room.

Pulley clears with 40-50mm now

Outlet pipe clears with a good 30-40mm of space, I could possible even remake it as a 2.5″ outlet

Looking at options on setting up the W2A

Intercooler outlet to intake manifold has a real nasty S bend to fit.

However, this might work. Pipes line up really nicely with minimal bends. Even leaves enough space for the battery to stay in the factory spot.

Quick belt test fit.

Till next time…

Another quick update.
Started making ShitManifold v1.0 to get this show on the road.

Bought a $30 vice from Bunnings and taped some random bits of alloy to it to make it into a pipe crushing machine.

Bought some 3″ aluminium tubing and crushed it over a 36mm pine plug to form the plenum chamber.

Brings it down to below the 45mm gap I have between the chopped 4AGZE manifold and the twinscrew unit.

A quick dummy fit shows it will do the job.

Quick dummy up of the intercooler placement and intake pipe paths.

Had a friend weld some plate to the chopped 4AGZE manifold. Each hole is for the cylinder runners and needs ported out to suit.

First port roughed out.

Few lumpy bits to smooth out.

It’s nothing special, but it will work.

I’m working with minimal tools at the moment, just a rotary file bit in my dewalt drill

The plate welded to the manifold will be trimmed to size once the porting has been completed.

Then a section of the plenum will be removed to match the trimmed plate on the manifold.

Then the two halves will be welded together forming a sealed manifold/plenum.

Quick fitment to the motor to have a look.

Add the plenum.

Another angle.

Till next time…

Bit more tinkering on the twinscrew tonight in an attempt to bed down on how it’s going back together for Nationals. Finished a half assed mount for the supercharger top. Needs some plate welded onto the angle to reach the remaining 3 holes, however I might just make this part out of some 150x100x10 steel instead as it’s easy to source and I can weld/cut it with ease.

I rotated the position of the bypass valve to provide more space on the head side for the intake manifold.

Some kind of intake manifold to be made in here. Will probably be ****, but I just want to get this running ASAP and it can’t be any worse then the stock setup.

Lower supercharger mount modified to suit new position.

Quick layout of the belt position, however I might need to add an idler between the supercharger and water pump to provide more belt wrap between the two. Also added the oil return hose, just need to weld in a AN-10 fitting into the sump to accept it.

Oil feed for the supercharger, need to get a hose made up to this then plumb it into a spare port on the thermostatic oil cooler plate.

Fitted aforementioned thermostatic oil cooler plate.

Need to do a quick test fit into the engine bay tomorrow to see how everything sits and where I will locate the W2A core.

Continuing from the engine tear down.

Just like working on a Fallcon or Commondoor, minus the sea sickness.

Off came the head.

Pistons look okay.

Bores…. Less so.

Headgasket was blown across all three dividers.

Head seems okay, needs a decent investigation though.

This wasn’t good to find…

Or this…

So time for some new parts and a quick rebuild!

Plan now will be.
– Drop the motor, inspect the bottom end – Replace bearings if necessary.
– Hone the block and fit new rings to pistons – Maybe upgrade to some 8.9 small port pistons while they are cheap.
– Replace the camshafts and damaged buckets – Maybe ‘invest’ in some Kelford cams.
– Check head for defects, replace with another if necessary.
– Replace timing belt, water pump, thermostat and transmission filter.
– Replace head gasket, head studs and exhaust studs.
– Build a new custom intake manifold to make better use of engine bay space for installation of the twinscrew.
– Reassemble engine and get it back in the car.
– Fit the DIYPNP MegaSquirt ECU.
– Do skids all the way to MTC2015

Out of the workshop and onto the drive way!
Some supercharged progress today.

Comparing technology from the 1950’s and something from recent times.

Now I should have continued on the process of stripping the motor down to replace the head gasket, however I just couldn’t help test fitting the twinscrew supercharger…

Doesn’t fit particularly nice, so time to make some custom stuff 😀
Started designing a new compact, equal length runner intake manifold to replace the dogs breakfast that is the factory SC manifold.

I did a big interstate trip home (14hrs each way) and brought the SlushDub and some stuff home.

Home and unloaded…

With her home, it’s time to start the repairs, restoration and upgrades!

I recently had to move interstate for a new job, so somethings got put on hold for a bit. However, I can still order parts!
One step closer to fixing the SlushDub

Now just need to get the car into the same state as me and try to get it fixed!
Hoping to get her running for MTC2015 and give it a shake down with the twinscrew!